Rare and Intriguing Textiles Await Visitors in "Weaving an Empire: Textiles of the Inka World," through December 23

Installation shot from Weaving an Empire: Textiles of the Inka World. Photo by Pulok Pramanik/the George Washington University.

WASHINGTON, DC.— A rare woman's dress that is 500 years old, a man's tunic depicting eight double-headed snakes, and one of the finest examples of an Inka elite tunic, featuring the classic "key" motif, are among the intriguing discoveries that await visitors to Weaving an Empire: Textiles of the Inka World, on view through December 23 at The George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum in Washington, DC.

The Textile Museum's first major exhibition of South American textiles in over 20 years reveals how Andean dress and other textiles in the 15th and 16th centuries reflected both the influence of the Inka and the diversity within their empire, which was one of the world’s largest and encompassed much of South America’s western region.

"The Inka used textiles for every aspect of state governance, from record keeping to religious ceremonies. Every component of clothing, from the base materials to the finishing edges, served as a means of identifying a person's cultural affiliation, the region they inhabited, their relationship to the ruling state and their social status," said Shelley Burian, Lisa and Bernard Selz Curator.

Woman’s dress; Peru, south coast (found); Late Horizon (1470-1532 CE). The Textile Museum Collection 91.75. Acquired by George Hewitt Myers in 1930.

Despite Inka hegemony, local textile traditions continued to flourish throughout the Andes, and Weaving an Empire presents a range of textiles from non-Inka cultures in different geographic regions. Found in the Chuqibamba region of present-day Peru, this rare example of a woman’s wrap dress blends mountainous and coastal styles. Interlocked tapestry weave creates blocks of color (red, green, dark blue, and brown) around intricate diagonal bird patterns created in complementary weft weave. The use of such large amounts of camelid fiber was a key feature of highland textiles, while the naturalistic imagery and complementary weft techniques were key features of coastal textiles.

Man’s tunic (unku), Peru, Late Horizon (1470-1532 CE). Made available for exhibit by the Historic Textile Research Foundation.

This man’s tunic, or “unku,” is an extremely rare example of an Inka garment depicting one of their deities, suggesting it may have been worn in a religious context. The eight double-headed snakes reference the “Amaru,” serpent deities believed to move between the underworld and the living world and to serve as guardians of knowledge. Representations of the Amaru in their complete form — featuring a jaguar head, serpent body and tail, and condor wings and legs — appear in the remains of Inka Houses of Knowledge, institutions that educated nobles, including those from non-Inka cultures, for leadership roles in the administration. Double-headed snakes are among the oldest motifs in Andean textiles, dating to at least 200 BCE.

Man’s tunic (unku), Peru, Late Horizon (1470-1532 CE). The Textile Museum Collection 91.147. Acquired by George Hewitt Myers in 1932.

One of the finest Inka tunics in existence is among the elite garments on display. It features the "Inka key" style defined by an arrangement of squares featuring an abstract design of diagonal lines and squares in contrasting colors on the top and horizontal stripes of alternating colors on the bottom. Although its exact significance is unknown, the key motif was linked to official status within the Inka state.

The galleries feature two mannequins with reconstructions of men’s and women’s garments crafted by Associate Conservator Cathleen Zaret. Photo by Pulok Pramanik/the George Washington University.

Gallery Guides and Audio Tours

Printed gallery guides in the exhibition provide visitors with information and illustrations about elements of Andean dress, textile materials, and stylistic characteristics of different regions. Audio tours in English and Spanish are available free of charge via a QR code in the gallery guide.

Special Public Programs

Public programming for the exhibition includes a free virtual roundtable on December 5, featuring talks by exhibition curator Shelley Burian and other scholars on ways that clothing shaped identity in the Inka Empire. For in-person gallery tours of Weaving an Empire led by experienced docents, you can submit an online request at least three weeks in advance.

Artisans Gallery

Handmade items from the Centro de Textiles Tradicionales del Cusco (CTTC) in Cusco, Peru, are available for sale in the Artisans Gallery at the museum. CTTC was co-founded by Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez, an Indigenous Quechua weaver from Chinchero, a village in the Cusco region.

Exhibition Support

Lead support for this exhibition is provided by The Coby Foundation, Ltd., the Historic Textile Research Foundation, Peruvian Connection, and the Western Hemisphere Curatorial Scholarship Fund. Additional support is provided by Corinne M. Berezuk, Tina M. deVries, and Roger and Claire Pratt.

Visiting Information

The George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum is located on GW’s Foggy Bottom campus at 701 21st St. NW, in Washington, D.C., just blocks from the Smithsonian Renwick Gallery, White House, Lisner Auditorium, and the National Mall. Galleries are open to the public Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., closed on university holidays. Admission to the museum is free. For information on the museum's visiting hours, exhibitions and educational programs, please check the museum website.