LONDON,ENGLAND.- The Castke Howard Costume Collection - Britain’s largest private collection of period costume - comprising over 10,000 pieces will be sold in a series of sales at Sotheby’s, Olympia. Started by the late George Howard in the 1960s, costumes from 1730 to 1900 will be included in an auction of Antique Costume and Textiles on Tuesday, October 7, 2003. The collection spans more than 250 years of fashion history and is expected to realise in excess of £250,000. Estimates will range from £100 to £15,000 and the funds raised will be used to pay for various conservation projects at Castle Howard.
The collection was originally housed and displayed in the beautiful stables at Castle Howard, Yorkshire, which had been designed by John Carr in 1782. The Costume Galleries were established here in 1965, but only a small proportion could be shown at one time and now the collection is being sold as it can no longer be adequately stored or displayed there.
Kerry Taylor, specialist in charge, commented: "The collection is not only large, but incredibly varied and will appeal to museums and private buyers alike."
During the 18th century, men vied with women in their choice of flamboyant attire. A dashing gentleman’s blood-red velvet suit embellished with undulating ribbon, silver brocade, gold and silver raised work, and sequins, is a fitting example of this. Reputedly worn by Lord Alleyne Fitzherbert (1753-1839), a diplomat who negotiated peace with the American colonies, the suit is estimated at £10,000-15,000. A slate blue sleeved waistcoat, couched and embroidered in gold thread, dates from c.1730-40 and is one of the earliest items in the sale (est: £800-1,000). Also of interest is a rare crimson damask banyan (an early precursor of the dressing gown) of early 18th-century silk, worn by Thomas Severne (1644-1739), Gentleman of the Bed Chamber to King William III (est: £3,000-5,000). From the 1780s onwards, although lines became more formal as the French Revolution approached, gentleman’s dress was still extremely decorative. A c.1780 French purple velvet court coat and breeches, voided with peppermint spots and embroidered with grasses and cornflowers is expected to realise £1,500-2,000.
In the mid 18th century fashionable additions to women’s dress included hoops to widen the skirts, the stomacher (stiffened and heavily embroidered) which filled the bodice gap at the front of the dress, sleeves embellished with lace ruffs, that finished just above the elbow and the sack-backed gown. Dresses with long flowing backs and a fitted front include a c.1775 Scottish sack-backed open robe of a Lille chiné of velvet and striped satin (est: £1,500-2,500). This sumptuous fabric was made in Lille and purchased at 36 shillings a yard before it was sent to Scotland and made into this pretty gown. Other highlights include a 1770 striped silk open robe of striped and spotted pink and green silk taffeta (est: £700-1,000) and an English emerald green damask satin lady’s banyan, the fabric designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite c.1740, but the dress probably remodelled c.1750/60s, featuring a large scale design of meandering flowers and leaves (est: £1,500-2,500).
The French Revolution brought about great changes in fashion. Billowing petticoats, panniers and corsets were replaced by high-waisted gowns falling to the feet in simpler neo-classical lines. On occasion material was even dampened to cling to the body and make the gown transparent to imitate Greek statues. It was during this period that the handbag appeared for the first time as it was impractical to have pockets in such flimsy material. Dresses that illustrate this trend include two muslin dresses and a blue satin striped dress circa 1810-15 (est: £800-1,200).
As the Revolution ended and Robespierre had been executed, people on both sides of the Channel could once again dress as they pleased and demand for complex designs took precedence. Many weaving factories had either been destroyed or closed and dressmakers had to find new ways to obtain patterns for their materials; this they found in the newly developed technique of printing on fabrics from the 1830s. Of interest is a charmingly floral double-breasted gentleman’s dressing gown, c.1820-40 printed with finches and dog roses (est: £800-1,000). Three 1830s-early 1840s English-printed cotton dresses, one of lilac block-printed cotton with matching capelet, another roller-printed with roses and the third with stripes and rosebuds are estimated at £500 to £700. Also from this period is a rare charity school or orphanage uniform for a young lady in extremely good condition, made in brown wool with the sleeves edged in satin and estimated at £1,000-1,500.
The 1850s heralded the triumph of the bourgeoisie in England and France. Trade and commerce seemed to flourish and the Great Exhibition of 1851 demonstrated new technology and gave hope that an era of universal peace was beginning. Increased prosperity meant more elaborate dresses, intricate decoration, velvet trimmings, lace rosettes and the return of hooped petticoats so prevalent during Queen Victoria’s reign. Of interest is a black silk gown of 1898, with a widow’s peak bodice worn by Queen Victoria (est: £3,000-5,000).
If the recent release of the Nicholas Nickleby film inspires a 19th century fashion revival, look no further than this sale. Although many of the pieces are undeniably museum pieces there is also rail upon rail of wearable gowns, wonderful shawls, Victorian fancy dress lace and bridal outfits galore, with estimates from £100 upwards.
Women’s accessories from the period are well represented from flowing 18th-century petticoats through to tightly- laced, boned and bustled late 19th-century corsets, complete with jewellery, hats, hairpieces, shoes, bags, parasols, gloves - everything a well-heeled lady would require. Illustrated is a pair of exquisitely embroidered ivory satin embroidered ankle boots made by the famous Parisienne shoemaker F.Pinet, circa 1870 and estimated to fetch £600-800. Also of note are Mrs Disraeli’s ankle boots, wife to British Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli (1804-1881), made c. 1860 and estimated at £400-600.
Highlighting the bridal and lace section is the fine Castle Howard Bridal veil estimated at £600 to £1,000. Discovered in the attics of Castle Howard, it was made in Brussels c. 1860 and is decorated in needlepoint with large bouquets of flowers to the corners with the ground sprigged with clover. Wedding dresses include a brocaded gold satin bridal gown by Miss Dixey of Conduit Street (est: £300-400) and three bridal gowns from the 1870s to be sold together at an estimate of £400 to £600.