BERLIN.- Mario Testinos new exhibition explores the physical notion of undressing through photography and film that blurs the boundaries between eroticism, anatomy and art. Conceived exclusively for the
Helmut Newton Foundation, this immersive, large scale exhibition is on view until November 19.
Helmut Newton was a big inspiration for me. He did it all in his own way and out of his own fantasies, so it is an honour to be exhibiting at his Foundation, says Testino.
Exploring the physical notion of undressing, the exhibition also acts as a metaphorical undressing of Testino, that goes beyond the public perception and delves deeper into his archive, and his working practice. 54 larger-than-life images are affixed directly to the walls in three of the Foundations exhibition halls, reaching into the corners of the room and up to the ceiling, filling the rooms with bodies and emotions to create an imposing human landscape.
A special highlight is series of previously unseen photographs shot in the Testino studio. In this deeply personal work, an exuberant atmosphere intermingles with the implicit frisson of nudity, and while playfully amorous, the dynamics never slip into the obscene or pornographic. Honouring the influence of Helmut Newton, the images become abstracted body landscapes, the protagonists appearing as mere forms, torsos, even statues.
Testino has elevated fashion photography into the realm of art. Consistent with his wider practice, the origins of his work lie in Old Master paintings, as much as the history of photography. Many of the images may be seen to redefine masculine paradigms, in the same way that Newton created his own brand of female beauty.
Alongside the exhibition, the Foundations cinema room is showing a unique short film entitled Undressing The Mind. This shows Testino in conversation with psychoanalyst Kai Hammermeister. In their exchange, Testino and Hammermeister analyse the root of Testinos fascination with the human form, and Testino opens up about love and intimacy. The film is interspersed with images from Testinos body of work, and gives the viewer a unique insight into his mind.
Undressed is supported by a catalogue, published by TASCHEN, documenting the exhibition and features a unique conversation between Testino and long-time collaborator Carine Roitfeld. Also included is an essay from psychiatrist and psychologist Manfred Spitzer, who offers a neuroscientific perspective on humanities visual perception of bodies and beauty. The catalogue is priced at £24.99.