Heritage's jewelry auction celebrates sparkling diamonds, dazzling colored gems and chic designer beauties

The First Art Newspaper on the Net    Established in 1996 Thursday, April 25, 2024

Heritage's jewelry auction celebrates sparkling diamonds, dazzling colored gems and chic designer beauties
Diamond, Platinum Ring. Estimate: $175,000 - $225,000.

DALLAS, TX.- If auctions were cocktail parties, Heritage's diamond-studded, gem-filled Fall Fine Jewelry Signature ® Auction would be the chicest soiree of the season. The September 28 event teems with fashionable A-listers of the jewelry world, including diamonds in a rainbow of hues, impressive colored gemstones and exceptional creations by designers both classic and contemporary.

Highlights of the 325-lot event are so numerous, in fact, that naming a guest of honor is almost impossible. In the running, however, is a gorgeous diamond and platinum ring (estimate: $175,000-$225,000) with a stunning pear-shaped diamond weighing 8.38 carats, as well as another beautiful diamond and platinum ring (estimate: $115,000-$135,000) featuring a 5.20-carat sparkler.

But colorless diamonds aren't the only diamonds on the distinguished guest list. In addition to a 1.21-carat fancy light blue and platinum diamond ring (estimate: $100,000-$150,000) and a 1.04-carat fancy purple-pink diamond and 18k white and rose gold ring (estimate: $80,000-$100,000), the auction offers a 2.19-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond ring (estimate: $20,000-$30,000), a 0.27-carat fancy intense pink diamond ring (estimate: $30,000-$50,000) and a 4.16-carat fancy orange-brown diamond ring (estimate: $10,000-$15,000).

"Colored diamonds are some of the rarest and most precious treasures on Earth," says Jill Burgum, Heritage Auctions' Executive Director of Fine Jewelry. "So we're thrilled to bring our bidders a range of remarkable diamonds in so many colors of the spectrum."

The kaleidoscopic party continues with a group of noteworthy colored gems, including rubies, spinels, tourmalines and sapphires in a variety of eye-catching colors. The auction's Burma spinel and diamond ring (estimate: $70,000-$90,000) with a dazzling oval-shaped spinel weighing 8.84 carats is sure to attract bidders' attention, as is a Bijan Burma ruby ring (estimate: $20,000-$30,000) and a Paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring (estimate: $8,000-$12,000).

But it's the auction's sapphires that perhaps shine the brightest. Leading the pack is a Ceylon purple sapphire and diamond ring by Bvlgari (estimate: $90,000-$110,000), the centerpiece of which is a mesmerizing cushion-shaped pinkish-purple sapphire weighing 10.67 carats. The prestigious Italian jewelry house has long been known for its striking use of colored stones, and this bold design is no exception. Other sapphire-centric jewels on offer include a 9.93-carat Ceylon sapphire and diamond ring (estimate: $15,000-$20,000), a 25.01-carat Ceylon yellow sapphire and diamond ring (estimate: $20,000-$30,000) and a 3.03-carat heart-shaped padparadscha sapphire and diamond ring (estimate: $10,000-$15,000). Padparadscha sapphires, with their orangey pink hue, are some of the rarest sapphires in the world.

No Heritage jewelry auction would be complete without a bevy of elegant creations by the world's most renowned designers. "This sale has no shortage of important designer names, the true elite of the elite," Burgum says. "In addition to Bvlgari, we have wonderful designs by Harry Winston, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Lalaounis and Oscar Heyman."

Among the standouts is a charming Tiffany & Co. Belle Époque brooch (estimate: $15,000-$20,000). Shaped like a delicate bow, the brooch holds approximately 10.00 carats of European-cut diamonds in a platinum setting. Another stunner is the auction's Tiffany & Co. Croisillon bracelet by Schlumberger Studios (estimate: $15,000-$20,000), meticulously crafted by layering enamel with 18k gold. Parisian artist and jeweler Jean Schlumberger was the first Tiffany & Co. designer given the privilege of signing his name to his jewelry, and the colorful Croisillon bangle, first introduced in 1962, is one of his signature designs.

Van Cleef & Arpels makes a fine showing as well. Prime offerings include a floral-inspired, circa 1950s diamond, platinum and gold necklace (estimate: $30,000-$40,000) with approximately 9.50 carats of diamonds, and a diamond, platinum and gold minaudiere (estimate: $30,000-$40,000) with a similarly delightful floral theme.

And from Oscar Heyman, there's a spectacular necklace and bracelet duo: The diamond and platinum bracelet (estimate: $20,000-$30,000) is an Art Deco-style masterpiece, and the circa 1980 necklace (estimate: $30,000-$40,000) is a glorious spiral of platinum, gold and 24.81 carats of diamonds. The necklace is so sensational, in fact, that it's displayed on the title page and an interior page of Oscar Heyman: The Jewelers' Jeweler by Yvonne Markowitz and Elizabeth Hamilton.

The auction also features an inspired lineup of contemporary designers, including Kimberly McDonald (with a lovely pair of tourmaline and diamond earrings), Marilyn Cooperman (with a celestial South Sea cultured pearl brooch) and Christian Tse (with a beautiful platinum necklace). There are also pieces by Solange Azagury-Partridge, Robert Lee Morris and Peter Schmid of Atelier Zobel.

The event ends on a high note with a fabulous selection of earrings by the inimitable JAR, the first living jeweler to have an exhibition of his work staged at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Under typical circumstances, one must be personally approved by Joel Arthur Rosenthal to purchase one of the magnificent — and relatively few — jewelry designs he produces each year for his Paris boutique. But during Heritage's Fall Fine Jewelry Auction, bidders will have the rare opportunity to take home one of the internationally renowned jeweler's coveted creations.

On offer are eight pairs of sculptural JAR earrings made with materials such as aluminum, glass and resin. Among the wearable works of art are aluminum earrings in the shape of fig leaves (estimate: $5,000-$7,000), gardenia-inspired resin earrings (estimate: $5,000-$7,000) and a pair of sculpted aluminum earrings (estimate: $8,000-$10,000).

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