BERLIN.- The Museum für Fotografie has opened "Rico Puhlmann. Fashion Photography 50s – 90s," a comprehensive exhibition celebrating the impactful work of the German photographer. The show, presented by the Kunstbibliothek – Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, offers an in-depth look at Puhlmann's four-decade career, from his beginnings as an illustrator to his rise as a globally recognized fashion photographer.

The exhibition, which runs until February 15, 2026, showcases Puhlmann's diverse portfolio, featuring images that graced the pages of major publications like Brigitte, petra, Constanze, and international editions of Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Glamour, and GQ. His lens captured the era's most iconic models, including Cheryl Tiegs, Jerry Hall, Cindy Crawford, and Naomi Campbell, with his work frequently adorning magazine covers and filling glossy spreads.

A Career Defined by Evolution and Influence

Puhlmann launched his career in his native Berlin as a fashion illustrator, contributing to the city's burgeoning post-World War II "Berliner Chic." He quickly transitioned to photography, shaping the visual identity of West Berlin fashion alongside contemporaries like F. C. Gundlach and Helmut Newton.

The 1960s brought significant shifts to fashion, influenced by Op- and Pop-Art, the space race, and London's "Swinging Sixties." Puhlmann adapted to these changes, with evolving photographic technologies like flash, color film, and 35mm cameras expanding his creative possibilities. In 1970, Puhlmann moved to New York, where he continued to define fashion imagery, notably contributing to the "American Look" in Europe through his work for Glamour and Harper's Bazaar, and even directing fashion films.

His later work, particularly for Harper's Bazaar until the early 1990s, reflected the increasing self-confidence in the portrayal of women. For GQ in the 1980s, he explored new masculinities in fashion and grooming with a refined visual language. Puhlmann's process also evolved, moving from more independent shoots in the 1960s to collaborations with larger editorial teams that included art directors, make-up artists, and stylists.

Rico Puhlmann's life was tragically cut short in a 1996 plane crash, leaving behind plans for a book publication and a potential return to Berlin for a teaching position. The majority of the exhibits are drawn from the Rico Puhlmann Archive, managed by his brother Klaus Puhlmann and his wife Anne.

The exhibition is curated by Dr. Britta Bommert, head of the Fashion Image Collection at the Kunstbibliothek, with co-curator Hans-Michael Koetzle and in close collaboration with the Rico Puhlmann Archive. An extensive catalog accompanying the exhibition is available from Verlag Kettler.