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"SensationS" exhibition opens at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion
People look at a creation by Parisian fashion house "On Aura Tout Vu" displayed at the "SensationS" exhibition at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion (Cite internationale de la dentelle et de la mode) in Calais, northern France, on June 12, 2014. "SensationS" runs from June 14 to December 31, 2014. AFP PHOTO / PHILIPPE HUGUEN.

By: Lydia Kamitsis

CALAIS.- After the success of the Plein les yeux! and Iris van Herpen exhibitions in 2013, the International Centre for Lace and Fashion returns to the theme of extravagance for the 2014 season, with Paris fashion house on aura tout vu.

The new exhibition offers visitors a fascinating insight into a unique, poetical creative world, one which explores and experiments using a raft of artisanal techniques and new technologies. It is neither a chronological retrospective nor a showcase for the big themes running through the work of on   aura  tout  vu, still less an artistic installation. It is designed as an opportunity to develop new dialogues and interactions with the public, taking visitors into virtually unchartered yet fundamental territory in the world of fashion discourse.

Above all, the aim is to examine the pleasure that fashion items arouse in us.

Built in close collaboration with Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov, the founders of on  aura  tout  vu, the project seeks to bring a fresh approach to fashion creation, understood here as the "manufacture of sensations".

After the Plein les yeux! exhibition with its emphasis on the visual, this new show embraces all five senses in a poetic evocation of a rich array of emotions and sensations. It is the fruit of the unbridled imagination of this pair of iconoclasts.

The exhibition is an interplay between seven broad families of sensations elicited in the creations of on  aura  tout  vu, taken from various collections produced between 2003 and 2014. Each one is also an autonomous theatre of experimentation, which visitors will gradually discover as they make their way around the exhibition.

The on  aura  tout  vu collective is a Parisian fashion house, based at the Palais Royal since 1998 and run by Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov. It is a multiform creative adventure that freely explores a variety of artistic expressions.

Embroidery, painting, sculpture, welding and couture are used seemingly indiscriminately to produce offbeat textures by mixing, juxtaposing, superimposing, selecting hybrid forms. The method applies just as well to jewellery and accessories as it does to clothing, technological artefacts, textile sculptures, cases, bottles and furniture, and comes across as a jubilant exploration, a permanent challenge to the dogma of good taste.

Fashion according to on  aura  tout  vu is never a re- creation of bygone modes since it is not driven by nostalgia; their collections are instead built on metaphors, poetical evocations of the world, critical yet amused observations of contemporary society. A dash of surrealism, an undertow of humour, a hint of derision, a taste for wordplay and wit, and an unconditional love of the artisanal, the handmade: these are the ingredients that spice the message sent out by each of their collections.

on  aura  tout  vu breaks introduced by the Haute Couture over the years to give their own interpretation codes. Diverting fashion and glamour, the designers Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov stand out for several years for their extravagant and original creations, far from conventional classic haute couture fashion.

Today, on  aura  tout  vu brand presents each season during the Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week but is also invested in other areas such as ready-to- wear, accessories, design objects, decor, makeup, perfumes as well as costumes and scenography for ballet performances and music. They are also involved as art directors in the brands Moulin Rouge by on  aura  tout  vu and Caron par on  aura  tout  vu. on  aura  tout  vu shows us that luxury can be playful.

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