PARIS.- With the sale of the Didier Ludot collection, staged for the first time in Paris, in association with Kerry Taylor Auctions, Sotheby's rose splendidly to the challenge of Haute Couture in Paris. The finest models in Paris Fashion Week were paraded at the Galerie Charpentier. The final total came to €966,259 / $1,069,533, after an estimate of €285,000-415,000 and 100% of the lots were sold: a feat that won the auctioneer the white gloves at the end of the sale.

Didier Ludot said, "I am extremely happy about my collaboration with Sotheby's. A number of pieces really took off, while others remained at affordable prices. I like the idea of these models setting out on a new life."

According to Camille de Foresta, the auctioneer for the sale, and Florent Jeanniard, specialist in 20th century design, "These majestic results reflect the huge enthusiasm of the international market for Haute Couture. It is a universal discipline that appeals to enlightened collectors and institutions, while attracting an elegant new public

Audiences thronged to the exhibition and the sale alike, acclaiming the beauty of the exceptional Haute Couture pieces brought together by Didier Ludot over more than 40 years. These 171 pieces, dating from 1924 to 2006, were a vibrant tribute to French Haute Couture and the ancestral expertise of its craftspeople. The secret garden of a passionate man, an eternal admirer of feminine elegance, was clearly appreciated by enthusiasts and collectors as they battled for the 171 lots in the sale.

The highest price went to an evening dress by Balenciaga, entirely covered in pink ostrich feathers. Estimated at €6,000-8,000, it fetched €56,250 / $62,262 (lot 29). It had belonged to one of the most elegant Parisian women of her time, Francine Weisweiler, friend to Cocteau and Picasso.

From Paul Poiret to Yohji Yamamoto by way of Madame Grès, Christian Dior, Cristobal Balenciaga, Azzedine Alaïa, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, John Galliano and Comme des Garçons, this selection from the Didier Ludot collection provided a complete overview of the history of 20th century fashion. As well as Balenciaga, the most sought-after couturiers included:

• Pierre Cardin: evening dress in apple green gazar – €41,250 / $45,659 (lot 143; estimate: €2,000-3,000).

• Thierry Mugler: moulded green bronze leather breastplate worn over a chiffon handkerchief skirt. This model was presented by the celebrated model Jerry Hall in the fashion show of 1979 – €35,000 / $38,741 (lot 144: estimate: €3,000-5,000).

• Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferre: finely-checked wool suit with large organza bow, Fall/Winter 1989-1990, sold for €35,000 / $38,741 after an estimate of €1,500-2,000 (lot 8). This came from the first collection by Gianfranco Ferre, created as a tribute to the New Look, for which he received the Dé d’or Award.

• Yves Saint Laurent, an evening mini-dress entirely embroidered with rhodoid feathers on a sequin background by Maison Lesage, which went for €23,750 / $26,288 (lot 41; estimate: €6000-€8000).

• Jeanne Lanvin-Castillo, lavender tulle cocktail dress by Antonio del Castillo from 1956 - €22,500 / $24,905 (lot 59; estimate: €2,500-3,500).

• Pierre Balmain: black velvet cocktail dress entirely embroidered in chiffon roses by Maison Lesage. Wardrobe of Balmain's star model, Paulette – €25,000 / $27,672 (lot 167; estimate: €3,000-€5,000).