LONDON.- Weavers of the Clouds brings the captivating art and textiles of Peru to the UK, showcasing some of the world’s oldest and most colourful designs. The exhibition features rarely seen objects from private collections and national museums, including full costumes, tapestries, paintings, photographs, illustrations and accessories. Weavers of the Clouds examines the vibrant applied crafts, heritage and traditions of Peru, celebrating the culture and customs of the artisan and their influence on design, fashion and beyond.
Peru is one of the earliest civilisations - an ancient culture dating back to pre-Colombian times, with an uninterrupted lineage of textiles and costumes and the longest continuous history of textile production in the world. Each geographical region is associated with a different technique or application; the exhibition will feature weaving from the Central Highlands, felting created in the North, floral embroidery produced in Ayacucho in the South West, knitwear originating in the Highlands and machine embroidery from the Colca Valley.
Exhibition highlights include a 16th century Quipu – knotted fibres used by the Incas as a form of communication – and a four cornered hat, dating from 600 AD. A rare pre-Hispanic tunic created in orange, yellow and blue macaw feathers is displayed alongside a sequined waistcoat emblazoned with birds and flowers and a Shipibo costume from the Amazon Rainforest, embroidered to reflect the astrological map.
Tapestries and weaving from a private collection include a ceremonial tunic created using a Scaffold weave; one of the most unusual weaving techniques in the world, previously existing only in the Andean region of South America. Despite dating back to 800 AD, the influence of these techniques can be seen across hundreds of years; in particular in the works of Bauhaus designers Gunta Stölzl and Anni Albers.
The costumes and textiles on display have been complemented by a selection of varied and engaging photographs by Marta Tucci, Max Milligan and Sebastian Castaneda Vita. Also on display are postcards by influential photographer Martin Chambi. Chambi was one of the earliest known indigenous Latin American photographers, whose black and white postcards, featuring images of the indigenous people of Cuzco and their costumes, helped to disseminate knowledge of Peru in the 20th Century. Postcards were an important part of Chambi’s practice; a selection of examples, dating from the 1930s, are being presented in re-creation of his iconic studio.
The exhibition’s Mezzanine Gallery features contemporary Peruvian fashion designers, including Meche Correa, Chiara Macchiavello and Mozhdeh Matin. These designers work with numerous traditional techniques still practised in communities today, including embroidery, hand woven trimming, appliqué, crotchet and knitwear – celebrating time-honoured Peruvian skills. The work of these designers encourages the sustainability and continuation of these master crafts, which are otherwise at risk of diminishing in a fast moving world.
The Mezzanine Gallery also highlights the continuing influence of Peru on international design – from Vivienne Westwood’s 2014 collection, inspired by the Ashaninka tribe, to New York designer Naeem Khan, whose Fall/Winter 2018 collection was shaped by the women of Peru. This space also celebrates young designers, featuring an exciting collaboration between third year BA (Hons) Textile Design students at Chelsea College of Arts and Peruvian brand, KUNA. Briefed to create a textile collection inspired by Peruvian designs and processes, students submitted a broad range of works. The winning pieces, handpicked by Dame Zandra Rhodes, will be featured in the exhibition.
Encompassing many different mediums and dimensions, Weavers of the Clouds celebrates Peru’s incredible history of traditions and skills, taking a cultural journey from the country’s rich past, to the vibrant modernity of its contemporary arts.
